Volvo penta what kind of oil

Absorbs petroleum products, cooling liquid, water, etc. You can even use it to wipe off the bilge after the work is done. Absorbs up the. Sold in a roll of four pads. Made from recycled polypropylene. Protects against wear, even at high temperatures. Also provides a very good corrosion protection.

Click here to see how much oil Volvo Penta recommends for your drive. Marine Parts Express recommends that customers with older gas engines and outdrives NOT use the synthetic oil in the engines or drives because of overheating issues.

If you have been using synthetic oil with no problems, then we recommend you continue to do so and not switch back. If your drive manual recommends a weight non-synthetic we recommend using NAPA's As Volvo Penta no longer has a non-synthetic 30 weight, we recommend purchasing a high quality 30 weight oil or equivalent. Replaces VDS-3 and , , , and K25, K28, K32, K36 use the same oil as the engine. Gallon: Quart: Duraplus spray and brush enamels are specially formualted to withstand high engine temperatures and to duplicate the original factory colors of Volvo Penta engines and drives.

While helping to maintain the original appearance, these paints are intended to provide additional protection against rust and corrosion, extending the life of marine engines and drives. Duraplus spray enamels are environmentally friendly aerosol products, containing no chloroflouro carbons CFCs. Used in combination with the Duraplus spray enamel metal primer, the products deliver smooth, dust-free finishes that dry quickly.

Model Recommendation Same as for engine. Synthetic Transmission Oil A fully synthetic oil of the highest quality for drives and transmissions.

Hydraulic Oil Protects against wear at high and low temperatures. Compressor Oil Specially tested in Volvo Penta compressors. Propeller Shaft Grease Propeller shaft grease is used for conventional packing boxes. Viscosity : NLGI 3 g.

Grease Special grease for marine environments. Under heavy loads like water sports as you suggested, some of these molecules break down into smaller pieces due to shear. We did not loose any balls, that just take up less space then they did before. The same thing happens with gear oil.

As the molecules shear, they take up less space and it appears that there has been an external loss of oil. Actually it is still there, just degraded in quality somewhat. After 50 to hours of this abuse, it begins to loose its effectiveness and is in need of a change out. Gear oils have a very high density, and a fairy low gravity. Drop a golf ball in a bucket of gear oil and it take a while to reach the bottom.

Drop the same ball in Gasoline and it sinks quickly. Now weigh each bucket and you will find that the gasoline is much heavier then the gear oil. Gasoline has a higher gravity, but lower density. The same volume of gear oil has a lesser mass as the complex chain molecules are large by comparison and have a great deal of air between them. Beat those big molecules into little ones in a high speed, non-hypoid gear case such as an out drive, and pretty soon the same amount of oil takes up less space, and needs a top off.

Nothing actually leaked out, the balls just got smaller. Lastly I'd like to suggest a variation in the method in which you and others change your drive oil. I keep reading about the air that gets trapped during refill and the subsequent need for topping off, and also about drive oil reservoir level alarms after servicing, and I can tell you I have a quick and easy solution.

When draining the drive, remove the cap from the remote reservoir, and remove the bottom drain plug. It's important to drain the reservoir anyway as sediment accumulate in the bottom of the bottle due to thermal capillary circulation during normal operation. Get this old oil out with the rest of the drive oil as it is just as old and just as worn out.

Attach your filler to the bottom drain as normal, and pump up the drive until oil appears in the remote reservoir. Look Mom, no air. The oil tube that runs up to the plastic bottle on the Gen II's exits the drive higher then the top vent plug, thus displacing the mystery air bubble. Using this methodology, I have never had to top off a drive after servicing. If you beat up an Alpha, expect to add a little oil due to shear, but if you are doing that often and there is no external leakage, the drive oil is shot and you need to think about changing it more often anyway.

I change it ever 50 hours, and have never had to top a drive off because I don't give the oil a chance to begin to shear and I don't start out with an air bubble in the first place. Keep the top plug in and watch out for shear loss and I think your drive will be around for another decade or so.

I hate to hear our forum members talking about top off on drives without level alarms. If you have to add a half a quart to a Bravo, or even less to an Alpha, then the top bevel gear set and bearings in the upper gear case are already taking a big hit.

Hope this helps. If you ever have any oil questions, I know who to call for answers as I still keep in touch with the boys at ExxonMobil. I've followed our group's comments over the past weeks and have had PM's from several of you and one common theme seems to prevail.

We are all looking for the quick black or white answer to what appears to be a very complex issue. I suggest that we try not to generalize too quickly and look at the individual facts based on the little information available to us.

A limited number of failures have occurred in Volvo 8. There was no evidence that this had occurred prior to the widespread usage of the Volvo SAE synthetic oil. Merc and Volvo all use the same base engine, however there are subtle differences.

Volvo's approach to increasing output is to utilize a cam shaft with a little less gross valve lift and a slightly higher valve spring pressure. They achieve their power gains by opening the valves sooner and more aggressively, and waiting until the last possible moment before slamming it closed. Seems like the cam followers are just having a bit of trouble following the cam, even with the increased spring pressure. Merc uses more total gross valve lift bigger cam and opens the valves more gradually, opens them a tad more, then gently closes the valves.

They get away with less spring pressure but idle quality suffers a bit. By putting conventional oil in an 8. The real problem IMHO lies in a too aggressive cam profile, without the addition of adequately stiff valve springs to complement the 8.

Let's face it, if you had a choice of changing an oil specification, or changing out cams and intake valve springs as part of a mass recall, what would you do.

Personally I don't think the Volvo SAE will be around for too long as their contract supplier dropped it from their own line-up some time ago. As I said in the past, these oils are typically a re-brand of an existing offering produced by one of the majors.

If you have a Volvo 8. Blasphemy I'm going for the new Merc oil in my HO and the remainder of our "fleet" as soon as my supply of Mobil-1 15w Extended Performance runs out, as ExxonMobil does not blend it domestically anymore. Sad day for the boating, street rod, and drag race crowd. I think it is only a matter of time that documented Volvo owners get a notification about the use of Volvo SAE Wow, that was a lot of good info.

Thanks for that! I tried searching before posting this but you can imagine how many responses I got for "oil". Thanks again! I have always been a fan of Mobile 1 Synthentic. Now I know why. Thats what I am going to this spring. Great post about marine oils. It's confirmation of what I have been doing for the past 20 years with my land vehicles and my boat this season - full synthetic oil.

My question is what oil is currently being used in Volvo engines from the Chaparral factory? Woudn't the engine come pre-lubed from Volvo factory? I would think VP test the engine before shipping. I refuse to pay almost 90 deer [with sales tax] for a jug of Mercs full synthetic oil up here in Canada! Nothing but Mobil 1 15W50 for me now! I was in the US last weekend, and picked up 6 jugs at Walmart, for only 26 deer per jug. Reccomended by Amsoil tech for my Volvo 5. I totaled up milage in the trucks thru last November and we had over 2.

I use it in our twin 8. My plans for my Volvo 8. I'll also warn against Amsoil gear oils in cone clutch applications like Bravo's and Volvo. This information is already getting a bit dated. I should do some current research and get busy on an update. Why's that? By the way: Thank you for writing up that other bit on motor oils in general. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. You are using an out of date browser.

It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Thread starter rapa Start date Mar 10, Status Not open for further replies. Joined Jun 20, Messages Hi, I'm sure this has been talked about, but I just found out that this oil is no longer available.

I have a Volvo Penta 5. What oil is recommended for its replacement? Thanks, Ray. Bondo Moderator Staff member. Joined Apr 17, Messages 68, Any other oil with the same specs as the Volvo oil, Narrow your results by using the filters below. Show more. Show More. Learn more. All Rights Reserved.